Hi Geoff, Tony or anyone else with any tips.

My spare bedroom door is not closing. It was fine before I went away for 2 weeks, and the door had been left open during that time. When I got home it was to very hot temperatures and so I attempted to close the door to keep the cool in and not cool areas of the house that werent being used. But the door wouldnt close, it is sticking really badly on the top side. No amount of shoving or dragging or lifting will make it close.

I have checked the hinges and screws and they are not loose, the door jamb appears just fine. This has never happened before and given that nobody was here while we were away, I dont know what could have happened to it. Would a long period of dry weather cause something to happen perhaps? I would have been more inclined to think wet weather would cause an issue with swelling or dampness. But that certainly is not the case here. And all other doors in the house are not affected.

So your thoughts on what may have caused this issue would be appreciated, along with a simple (?) solution if possible. Btw my husband looked at it yesterday and was unable to fix it, so perhaps there is no simple fix. (-:

Sherie

hi Paul, if it's rusting on the top then it's going to rusting on the bottom, and the rusting on the bottom can work it's way up onto the top.
Can you unscrew or unbolt the umbrella from the bottom plate, there has to be some way because normally the bottom plate is attached to the concrete or timber first before the umbrella is inserted into the plate and then attached, probably by a bolt.
If its too big you may need someone to help you lift it out of the plate, let me know if you don't have anyone to help you, then I will suggest other options.
The plate needs to be unscrewed/unbolted from the ground, because fixing the top of it will only work for a short time, the bottom has to be de-rusted and painted as well.
There is paint that will de-rust it, or you could use an angle grinder only if you're not over too strenuous, but you need to derust it and then put an anti-rust paint onto it.
I would use new bolts/screws and there are anti rust ones now, so speak to your hardware store, years ago we used to use galvanised believing that there won't be any rust, but all it takes is a small hole in the galvanising that will start the rust, so it's never 100% proof.
Remember all those galvanised pipes under your house, especially for water, they have probably all rusted out and replaced by copper.
Let me know if that helps. Geoff.

hi Sherie, damp weather could always be the cause for doors not to shut, however a quick and easy way to try and fix this is by getting another piece of solid wood which you can handle quite easily in your hand, then placing it on the door jamb where it's sticking, then get your hammer and hit this piece of wood, pretty hard without hurting yourself, it may or may not move the jamb just enough to close the door.
You can also put a piece of cardboard the size of the hinge between the top hinge and the jamb, this will re-adjust your door pushing the door to alter how it hangs, if it sort of works then increase the thickness of the cardboard, although this may change where your door lock fits into the jamb, if so then re-alter the lock on the jamb, hope that's clear.
If none of this works then the door will need to come off and be planed at the top, and when planing start from one end and finish before you get to the other end, because if you put the plane halfway along the door and then plane you will chip the end of the door.
If the door rattles while it's shut, then there is a plate on the door jamb, it's in the middle of it and you can alter where it sits, maybe if you google this might explain it better, 'how to alter plate on door jamb to stop door rattling'.
Let me know how you get on. Geoff.

Tips

Got a sliding screen door that doesnt slide smoothly?

Take the door out by sliding it open and at one point the bottom of the door will flip out when you lift it.

Once out turn it upside down. You'll find two tiny roller wheels that are held in with screws. Once extracted measure the wheel size. Search for them on ebay. Get the exact size. Slightly bigger wont fit.

Grit often causes the wheels to grind and intermittently stop turning. Just clean out the grit and squirt wd40 into the wheel.

Maintenance saves replacement.

Got an air compressor? Put it on a timer. Nothing worse than "darling, the compressor is going" at 3am! When I use it I just turn the timer on for two hours. I also use a timer for my battery drill.

Do you use green coloured disposable butane cylinders common on some portable bbq or camping heaters? Save a few up then search ebay for a fitting that connects them to a 9kg bottle from your home bbq. You can then fill them up at home prior to camping for a fraction of the $12 cost.

Tony WK

Hey everyone :-)

Thanks Geoff....thats great...Ill give it a go...Paul

That's right Tony and sometimes you buy new rollers at a window/door manufacturer. Geoff.

Hey Geoff ... thankyou so much! The cardboard trick worked amazingly well. Would never have thought such a simple thing would make so much difference. I mean this door was majorly stuck! Now it works perfectly. I guess I just leave the cardboard in there, maybe glue it on to make sure it doesnt fall out?

Sherie (-:

hi Sherie, you might have to change it over time just to make it thick again. Geoff.

Hi Geoff and all,

sorry for my late return to a really good thread, there are pleanty of people that have no clue about fixing or looking after things, no fault of there own, just how it is.

Our house is brick with a bullnose veranda a breezeway (that we converted into a large office/ storage room,that joins onto a big double garage with laundry and bathroom.( we are still fixing this up our son lives there.

problem is All windows and glass doors are 2200 high.

There is not enough wall space to put new(kitchen with butlers kitchen bought of eBay)

Have thought about just gyprock on the inside ,but think it would look crap on outside, maybe stack stone as feature wall.

hmmmmm

Dory

Dory,

When you say, “gyprock on the inside, but may look rubbish on the outside”, are you saying that the structure is brick veneer? Meaning gyprock inner linings, timber stud wall and brick/stone external wall?

I’m guessing you want to use gyprock to create a wall inside for your kitchen and you need to fix the exterior wall in some “sort” of masonry/brick look?

I would think “stack wall” could be pricey. There should be other options depending upon what the actual exterior wall is. Also, what state? - weather conditions and all need to be thought of, cheers M :)

How to minimise paintbrush cleaning

Acrylic Paints

Otherwise known as water “wash up”. You can keep a paintbrush going for a considerable period of time by putting it in one of those plastic fruit and beg bags you get from the supermarket for, you guessed it, fruit and veg! Put the brush in there and squish the air out. I’ve just re-started a painting job I started about 4 months ago, and the brush is good to go. NOTE - store brush in cool place, I live in Adelaide, so our winters are cool, the brush was kept in my laundry.

When painting a room or two, I never wash a roller out. Use the same plastic bag as mentioned above, make sure you exclude the air, and it will be good to go. Because of water restrictions in Adelaide a few years ago, I have ceased washing roller covers out - firstly, it’s a waste of water and secondly, it’s not good to wash that paint down the drain. I use a Unipro “pink” cover, they’re about $3 each (in a pack of 3) do a reasonable job. When I’ve finished painting, I dry them out, then they get disposed of in hard refuse. At $3 per paint job, it’s cheaper to dispose of them.

Oil Based Paints

You can store a paint brush with oil based paint on it, indefinitely in the freezer, wrapped in several layers of plastic. Oil based paint will not dry when cold. Brushes will last for ever, it all depends upon your tolerance of smelly paint brushes in your freezer :) Same applies to roller covers.

Paint Disposal

Early last year, I downsized and moved. I had 40 tins of left over paint from various renovation projects spanning 20 years OMG! To dispose of paint in an environmentally sensitive manner it needs to be dried out. THE best product on the market is the cheap as chips Black and Gold Kitty Litter. Takes a bit of experimenting as to how much to use, but basically you want to dry the paint out so you can harden it, quickly. What you want to end up with is an empty tin and a mound of dried paint that you can wrap up in newspaper, so it can go into you general waste bin. This also work with oil based paint but you need to spread it out to dry and let the solvents evaporate off.

cheers M :)

hi Dory, I understand your problem and a suggestion, get a quote from a glazier to hold the window with suction cups and either remove whole window or see if they can cut the window in half while it's still in the window frame, it will probably need to be supported when it's cut, so build a frame with timber to the height you want your kitchen level to be.
As soon as it's cut, if it's done while in the frame (as they can cut a hole in a window so a fan can be installed), push the timber frame you have made under it straight away, the glazier may have a better idea, then this is the beginning of your new kitchen.
You can plaster the frame on the inside to make it mouse proof, then build the kitchen, on the outside, you can either use hardiplank to seal it up or get a brickie to finish it off.
The glazier may want to remove the whole window which would be better because then you can start your kitchen at the right height and they can then come back and install the half window, this is probably the best way, it would be easier for you and give you time to get things going.
If the window has been silicone in the window might break that's a chance you have to take. Geoff.

Hi Geoff

I know that internet reviews (most of them) are from people that have a problem with the product so I am careful what I read....where renovations are concerned...

I have been told that British Paints is made in the same facility as Dulux. Its so confusing...

In a nutshell if you had to paint your walls would you use Dulux? Also do think think that Mitre10's 'Accent' branded paint is any good?.....I know its cheap but I dont want to take the risk ( I think its British Paints)

(If you want a laugh have a look at Dulux under product reviews...everyone on the forums are whinging about it)

Thanks again for your help....Not urgent.....only when you have the time

My Best

Paul

hi Paul, Dulux does make British Paints and Mitre 10 'Accent' is the same as British paints, all K-Mart paint is made by Dulux but not the same quality, same as other big stores who sold paint weren't the 100% quality, that's why they were cheap.
When I used to paint houses/ flats I would go to my paint dealer and buy the tradesmen paint made by Solver, because it was slightly cheaper, but I also used that paint for my own home, however for the outside I used Solaguard, but Bunnings don't sell that anymore, there was some disagreement in management, but my paint store sold it and got 10% off all paints.
Any paint, except those cheap brands, will be OK as long as the preparation is done, that's the hard part.
There has been an acrylic paint that can replace painting in enamel, it dries just as hard as enamel to use on window sills, doors, jambs so easier to clean up with.
Haymes is the premium product but if you live by yourself it maybe going overboard price wise, Dulux wash and wear is good, and Mitre 10 Accent is made by Wattyl, although who knows these days one company buys someone out and then take over by another company.
If you have a local paint shop they may have specials on all different products, just be aware of them trying to sell you something just to clean out their old stocks, they can be like car salesmen.
All you want is to have a paint where you can wipe food marks off without leaving a definite mark, but most paints do this anyway.
If you have a fan in your bathroom then you can use an acrylic paint, and in old houses the kitchen, laundry would be painted in enamel, so it needs to be washed down using 'tricleanium', much better than sugar soap, and there is an acrylic paint to paint over enamel walls in preparation for using acrylic paint.

Hi Geoff (and Mathy) for the super helpful advice

I may stick to Dulux after what you mentioned. I noticed you mentioned Haymes paints which are the bee's knees of paints and their price bracket too. This is my 27th year in my home since it was built in 1990. It was painted with Berger paint back then and I think the gas heating has made it yukky off yellow color since.

I appreciate the info on the moist bathroom area. I will make sure that I use an acrylic paint as my ceiling has just started peel a little in the last couple of years

Thanks Geoff (and to Mathy for the great tips on brushes and roller info!! ) You have just saved me a ton of water and grief too :-)

Paul

Ha , that's interesting Geoff , didn't know that. l love brittish stuff and naturally thought the paint was their's , but l do like the stuff whoever makes it.l've sprayed it a lot as well and it covers very well l always found., nice gloss too. Dulux l always found a bit thin and didn't cover as well.

l'd love to talk to you one day about the house painting business , l did a lot of casual painting earlier , also some sign writing old school . But at the moment l'm considering a change and better money and maybe going back to house painting was one thing l was thinking about as l always like it.

Tackled my ride on again this arvo , so close l can feel it. Hasn't been going for a few mths , only got one more small thing to chuck on , pertrol hose, anddddd she should run , again. Eeeehhhh haaaaa,,, no more pushy , well l'm hoping anyways. She's been a great old girl , been mowing my 1 ac place, no mean feet that stuff gets 6ft high , for 10 yrs and never failed me. so she was due for some tlc anyway.

Yep l did do it a few times at 6ft high , poor mower didnt like it but she did it. l'd do a few laps first and flatten it down , then turn the blades on and she'd hack her way through with it flattened out.

Then l discovered the old guy cross road did slashing so if it gets away from me now l call him. Does the whole thing , nature strip too , another 1/2 ac, 50bucks.

Anyway it's rented out now so l don't have to go over at the moment he looks after it. But my place here has huge nature strips too, probly 2 house blocks of extra mowing , plus around the yards too , thick thick stuff that's back 4days after you mowed it anyway.. So it's gonna be great to get the ride on back in action.

Yeah agree too Haymes is a beautiful paint , too dear for me though.

l use to use the prism paint factory up the road Geoff , their stuff was half the price of anything else . quality was ok , prices were great .

Hi Randomx/Geoff

I hear you about the price of Haymes paints.....ouch! Dulux is expensive enough as it is...for me anyway..

Geoff/Randomx...I only have a basic knowledge about renovations....I have seen ceramic tiles being painted with 2pac polyurethane....spray gun.....What are you thoughts about spraying bathroom tiles to avoid removing them and paying huge dollars for a glass splashback or a re-tile?

My Best.. Paul

Guys, I’d like to clarify the British Paints situation. I work for Bunnings, and BP has now become “our” brand. It is manufactured by Dulux, and it is my understanding that it works like this.

When Dulux upgrade the paint technology in the Dulux brand, then the “old” technology goes into BP, and their other second tier brands, such as “Accent”.

I’ve been observing this process for 10 years. In that time, Weathershield has gone to a “life of house” warranty, and BP 4 Seasons has gone to 25 years, which used to be the old Weathershield warranty.

Can’t comment on other brands :)

Excuse me for hijacking your thread Geoff...Mathy has really brought first hand knowledge here...

I just wanted to thank Mathy for the experience on the paint (and for the tips above that were offered by Mathy re rollers and brush info too!)

Thanks Mathy :-)

Paul

hi Randomx, I used to love hopping on the ride-on mower at home and I also used it when I was doing handyman/builder, but it does flatten the long grass, so slashing it is much easier, plus you never know what's hidden amongst the grass, one time there were car body parts,that annoyed me because it was a brand new ride-on, I never used it for work again.
If I had to paint a house/flat I would go to my paint shop and see if there were any 'miscoloured' paints similar to what I wanted to use because they were quarter the price and could be re-tinted.
Life warranty will only last if the preparation has been done properly, but usually happens is that people want to refresh or repaint the house again and if it's been sold then the new owners certainly change the colour.
Paul you can paint your tiles/bath and there are companies/businesses that can do this for you professionally, I don't know at what cost but you can get a quote.
I always disliked tiling but still had to do it.
If you paint your walls yellow you will probably need to give the walls more than two coats, it's a difficult colour to use because the coverage isn't as good as another colour. Geoff,

gday mathy , paul a geoff .

Wonder then mathy if like decades ago brittish was really brittish back then . Shame if so everything gets bought out in the end doesn't it.

Funny Paul , how's the tile situation looking , wouldn't you believe l was thinking about doing something like that with my bath room too. They're still stuck like glue and onto concrete so they'd probably l guess stay put for yrs yet. So l was thinking if maybe l just smothed over the grooves with something, grout or whatever and then put lino over top.

Wanted to paint my bath too . Not sure how long that lasts doing it that way but it's an old cast iron bath and l swear there's a big difference in the way the water feels , just beautiful. So l was thinking so much easier leaving it in and keep a great bath , maybe try a re enamel instead.

Yeah love me old ride on Geoff. Funny yeah it is a bit creepy in long grass though isn;t it. No telling what might pop out and jump on your lap hey, eeekk.

But anyway l got her going , ran a whole 20mins and stalled, wouldn't start up again , bugger. wound up having to push her up out of a ditch , and up onto the road then back down around the corner and back into the old garage again for more head scratching. She's great until l have to push her.

hi Randomx and Paul, there is a specific paint brand so google this 'https://www.todayshomeowner.com/how-to-paint-over-ceramic-tile-in-a-bathroom/' and 'painting over tiles in the bathroom' because there's a brand name of his specific paint'.
Personally I wouldn't suggest putting lino over wall/floor tiles only because water can get up where it ends.
You can silicone these areas but with most mildew builds up and makes it look untidy, there is one that is mildew free, and if this is what you're keen on, then regrout the tiles leveling it to make it flush with tiles.
Water is the main culprit, but painting them there shouldn't be any problem.
You could put a 'floating floor' down on the floor, again water is the problem.
If you've got an old cast iron bath with those curved legs I would enamel it, otherwise you'll need about 10 guys to lift. Geoff.

Hi Geoff,

just dropping by to say sorry I haven't responded to your helpful thread.

There is a delay to our property as hubby doesn't want to put money into it as we are in the green zone of RAFF contamination.

Dory

Hi Geoff.... RX Mathy and everyone

Thanks Geoff for your help with the bathroom ceramic tiles...Im sorry that I didnt mention that I was asking about the wall tiles....not the floor tiles. If your advice is the same, no worries. I should have mentioned wall tiles first..not floor....excuse me Geoff

Paul

Hi Geoff and All,

We have some very dated wooden furniture, bought in the 80s and 90s. (Some of you might not have been born then! That is a weird thought I had just now!) Anyway, it is probably chip board stuff or pine, don't know really. Some of it looks like it has veneer on it.

I'm wanting to paint these white, any ideas on what kind of paint to use? I was thinking spray cans would be cool, but don't really think that is the right option! Ha. Ha.

We also have wooden window surrounds and ledges that need some attention. Can I just stain those or would I need to sand them back a bit first?

My knowledge of correct names for stuff is a bit like my computer language skills...

Cheers from Dools

hi Paul, no worries, however if the tiles have a shiny glossy finish they will need to be rubbed down so the paint has something to adhere to.
hi Mrs. Dools, have a look under the table and you will see if it's chipboard, probably is with a veneer particle board glued on top of it giving the appearance of being pine or another wood, it can't be heavily sanded otherwise you will hve chipboard showing.
Even pine drawers have some real pine but the rest is veneer.
Enamel is stronger to use and you can use the spray can as a finish coat but it may need to have an undercoat put on first, using a roller and brush.
With the spray cans you can put two coats on the furniture but it has to be done within 2 hours otherwise you have to wait 7 days.
With your ledges they will need to be cleaned and depends on how good/bad they are because you can stain them, but if there is another prominent colour flaking off then they will need a sand, it's hard to say without seeing them.
If the wood has lost all it's natural colour there is a paint which will rejuvenate the original colour, maybe you can let me know what condition they are in. Geoff.

Hi all

Thanks Mathy for your inside info

My house was new 9 years ago. Weathertex boards. I purchased solar guard paint and it only coveted two coats half the house. I then bought the second batch using haymes. Haymes hasnt lasted as long. Same colour, same preparation.

Just saying. I think its over rated.

Had my time again I'd go vinyl or steel boards

Tony WK

Ha, well there ya go eh Tony, glad l've never paid Haynes prices then.

And my house had that aluminum cladding , at first l was cursing it has that on it but hey , maybe not then eh.

l'm gonna leave it on though regardless but what l wanna do to get rid of the fake look is reoaint the eves and put some arcs around the windows and things like that to try and get it more weather board looking. So far with what l've done has made a huge difference to it's look so l'll keep going with plabs and see how she shapes up.

I love painting,

just saying,

Dory