hi All, can't remember if this has been discussed, but here goes, anybody need to fill a hole in the plaster that has gone all the way through or can't change the security door lock which can be tricky getting the old lock out, or have stairs that continually squeak everytime you go up and back down them. Geoff.

Hi Geoff :)

Pretty sure that none of those issues have been discussed, they’re all a little tricky, yes? Cheers M :)

hi Mathy, is there in particular then please let me know. Geoff.

Well, l do have one little bit of good news.

The rover , he still lives ,l'm so stoked.

last week l had to push him up out of the ditch around the corner, again. and then it wouldn't drive forward only reverse makin all sorts of nasty noises and l'm almost ready to flog it off. Done that much to it the last few mths, more work than a damn car when they start playin up aren't they. even took it to a guy , it was running when l picked it up , just , but he didn't fix all this other stuff. sick of it l've been doing it myself here and there.

An easy fix for once this time, turned out the drive chain was too loose , tightened that and even treated it to some oil , now driving again and smoootthhh as silk.

Me vedy happy.Quietly hoping l get at least one mow out of it this time before something else goes wrong.

hi Randomx, fingers crossed hey, I remember my first ride on had a forward and backwards pedal had a drive shaft only a few inches long, but it was thick, but it kept on breaking under warranty, so back it went to the store who couldn't work out why it happened, it broke 3 times and it was a great mower, disappointing. Geoff.

Last year I got a really old (well looked after) ride on mower. I was out walking the dog when someone put it out next to the road for a kerbside clean up. I asked the man what was wrong with it and he said the chain kept falling off and it was too old to worry about putting in to get fixed. I called a friend to come pick it up and my intention was to remove the blades and any dangerous parts, then I was going to paint it in bright vibrant colours and mount it next to the sandpit for my grandchildren to play on. (Anyone remember years ago when playgrounds used to have tractors for kids to climb on and play on?)

Anyway, my friend (a retired mechanic) had a quick look, disappeared for about 20 minutes, came back, pulled the running gear etc off put in a small clip/spring (cost $42) then put it back together and mowed my yard. It hasn't missed a beat since. It's quite old but it's been well looked after. I love it!!

We have a Husqvarna ride on purchased new 7 years ago. Goes great. My wife mows our 1.2 acres with it.

Good induranve is oil change every winter, grease and blade sharpen.

Tony WK

Hi Geoff :)

I’d be interested in the changing a security door lock topic, as I have 2 x old aluminium sliding doors and 1 ordinary screen door, that all have locks that need replacing. We do sell these parts at work, but I have little knowledge about how to go about sorting this, so any gems you’d like to pass on would be gratefully received 😊

Cheers M :)

Good on you Geoff....

We have got to keep ourselves busy!!!

I too am a tradesman (painter)...

Have always enjoyed my work and the satisfaction at the end of a job...

Hope your well...

Haha that's great about your mower sad mushy, nice score.

don't worry mine was old when l got him , had a new motor though, and've had it 10 yrs.

It's been and absolute ripper up until just this last 12mths , They aren't serious things and it's motor and most it's gear is still great. it's just been smaller things but it doesn't take much to stop them once they get grumpy.

l'm very attached to it though so l'm persisting with this bad run. pretty sure he'll be good for another 10 yrs once l get it happy again.

Your a painter ballza, great stuff.

have you ever painted an aluminum cladding house.?

Been wondering if l could paint mine , not crazy about white .

Would enamel do it ?

I wish I had your ride on TonyWK...Husqvarna....built like a rock!

Geoff is back early tomorrow morning and that leaves TonyWK ....Ballza....Mathy...and hello SM too :-)

Ballza....great to have another tradie in here....a qualified painter...Yay!

Mathy asked (and me too!) I’d be interested in the changing a security door lock topic, as I have 2 x old aluminum sliding doors and 1 ordinary screen door, that all have locks that need replacing

I am as handy as a rubber shovel Geoff....When you have the time I would also like to hear about those evil security door locks too

Hope you are doing okay Geoff

My Best as always

Paul

hi Ballza, what a lovely welcome to you and hope you can stay on and help with answers as well. Geoff.

sorry guys I haven't forgotten about you and will answer your post tomorrow Mathy, I'm sorry, but any questions on here really interest me, it gives me a real buzz, I love it and will answer every question, it may not be immediately but certainly will do. Geoff.

hi Mathy, replacing locks on security doors, really it's not that hard if you know.
First of open door, then put the key into the lock and then turn the key to lock the door, on a single door the latch will extend out, as it does when you turn the key to lock the door when going out.
There is a screw parallel to the lock on the side of the door, where you will see a few screws, but only unscrew the screw parallel, then the lock will slide out, go and buy another lock, push it in and put the screw back in, new door lock.
If however you have lost your keys, then open door, take off the handles and put aside, now this next thing is tricky, put a screwdriver into where the lock is within the door, fiddle around somehow you will be able to lock the lock.
Remember there are two sides within the door lock, one side nothing will happen then try the other side, this may help you further 'how to take out a security door look if I've lost my keys'.
Same with a sliding door turn key to lock it, when the door is open, then unscrew the screw parallel to lock out then slide lock out.
Any problems let me know or if I haven't explained it clear enough. Geoff.

Gday one and all.

And paul , the rubber shovel cracks me up every time l read it mate, it's a classic, gotta try and remember that one.

Anyway Geoff , it's fantastic that you enjoy the thread.

My ex father in law was a retired builder andl always thought it was such an incredible shame that all his years and knowledge weren't being shared anymore

And funny ya know , so did he . So he started up a handyman business in hos area at 70 , he loves it and customers rave about him. And l'd know why to because he helped us on our house a few times.

Great idea mate and thanks again.

Thanks Geoff, will have a look see. My problem is that the sliding door locks are 40 years old and I live on a saltwater lake, so my keys don’t work due to the corrosion. I might proceed along the line os “I’ve lost my key” and see what happens. Won’t be ably to get to it until Fri/Sat, so don’t expect a response before then, thanks, cheers M :)

Hi Geoff, regarding the hole in a plasterboard wall, I just wanted to mention something for those who feel they’re as useful as a rubber shovel, or who maybe live in a rental and don’t want to invest in lots of stuff 😆 Not wanting to take away from your explanation at all.

There’s a kit made by Poly, which contains everything you need to fix a “door handle” size hole in a gyprock wall. It costs less than $15, and has the mesh to cover the hole, filler, spreader, sandpaper and instructions. All you need after that is a little undercoat (you can buy 100ml for about $7) and a cheap sample pot for the topcoat. And the repair is done. Because it’s a “Poly” product, you can only buy it in a Big Green Tin Shed in the paint department, same story for the 100ml of undercoat (that’s British Paint 4 in 1).

I mention this because a lot of people live in rentals and accidents can happen - this is a cheap fix, with all the necessary stuff and instructions. Also, possibly many people on BB are low income, therefore it’s an affordable fix. Although I work in a Big Green Tin Shed, I’m not fussed about being a fan girl about what we sell versus what anyone else sells, It’s just that financially, this little kit is good value for money, and I get lots of student customers who’ve “managed” to put a door handle through a wall, or a fist or whatever, cheers M :)

Hey RX, Mathy and Ballza....

Great to have the advice above....I am learning....the best I can...v e r y slowly..

I have been told that I am as 'Handy as a Rubber Shovel' for a long time :-)

Thankyou RX and Mathy lmao...

As Forrest Gump said...."Im pretty tired............might go home now"

Always good to have a laugh....My Best...Paul

hi Randomx, and elderly handyman like your ex-father in law, I love it, all those cookies and cups of tea, he must be something quite special. Geoff.

hi Mathy, never use W4 to lubricate any lock, the reason why is because it's a liquid, so dust will stick to the lock, then cloak it up, only use graphite powder.
You can buy a small amount, it's cheap but it will also cover your hands when you use it, but wash off.
Rubber shovel, it's a classic isn't.
Great point Mathy about mentioning the 'mesh' it absolutely works, I've used it before, another way is to get a piece of (gyprock) plasterboard, you can pick some up from a building site will give you some FREE.
Next I'll tell you another way, and what I say makes it seem as though it will a long time, but no it won't, my description maybe long but when you get used to doing it this way, it takes only a couple of minutes.
Buy a small bag of cornice adhesive, Mathy will show you where it is, it has to be cornice, because it 'goes off quickly', in other words goes hard quicker.
Cut a piece that will go through the hole then put in the hole in the middle of it and then put a string through it and tie it to a nail or something similar.
Mix up a small amount of cornice adhesive and put on a piece of plaster, then pull the plaster towards you with the string, either hold it or tie it to something that won't move.
Leave it there for a couple of minutes, maybe 10 minutes or so, or even longer(long description isn't it, but I assure you it's quick), cut string and then cut another piece that will fit into hole, then put some cornice only a small amount and put into hole, then you can finish off.
Quite agree Mathy for a quick fix use the mesh, but if you're short of finances visit a building site, ask and they will give you everything.
Boy, well the mesh sounds to be much quicker, but if you're adventurous then have a go. Geoff.

Technical names

"plumb Bob"

Its a small heavy pointed object attached to a string.that is used with gravity to find a point directly down from bove.

Eg installing a flu for a wood heater. If you have the heater where you want it. You can hang the bob from the ceiling. Move the string around until the bob is in the centre of the hole in the heater. Where you hold the string, thats the centre of where your flue will penetrate the ceiling.

Ive actually never owned one. I use a large nail.

Flybrace

Inside a garage should be flybraces. They are attached on an angle between the roof and the top of the wall. They prevent the shed from distorting in high winds.

Dont leave them off! Ive seen a new, owner built shed completely destroyed as he left those braces off.

Attics I have one. Due to a previous house I knew what I could expect from one. Strictly they are storage areas. In Australia they are not considered "habitable rooms" unless they have walls higher than 1200mm. In your typical attic the roof meets the floor meaning the walls are 0mm. Legally a habitable room means you can use it as a bedroom or even lounge room. Otherwise a storeroom is all its meant for.

hi Tony, that's what I did to install the wood, and yes if you don't have an attic then you've got a flat roof. Geoff.

Is really necessary to use a special expensive paint that is 'recommended' for bathrooms/toilets as per the paint manufacturer's directions?

I am currently using Dulux and previously had the builders specified paint 'Bergers' in my bathroom and toilets that lasted for 27 years until it just started peeling as per the moisture levels.

Is the super expensive paint worth it for the walls and ceilings of these areas or do I just use the Dulux I am now?

Thanks Geoff, Ballza, Mathy, RX, Tony WK

Paul

Hi Paul,

Are you talking about “Kitchen and Bathroom” paint, meaning it’s labelled that way? You pay more for that labelling lol. Also, they are often a semi gloss which personally I think is a nightmare in a kitchen/bathroom.

Those expensive paints have a mould inhibitor in them. Basically mould occurs due to poor ventilation.

You can buy a mould inhibitor to add to paint - if you do, wear PPE because it’s a bit toxic - you can certainly add this to your Dulux paint.

What I would do is clean your existing walls thoroughly with a decent mould remover (Selley’s Mould Remover or 30 Seconds brand), or alternatively 1 part White King or Domestos bleach (must be one of those brands) to 4 parts of water. When you clean, make sure you open windows and turn on the fan as the fumes are something else! What this does is kill the mould spores, which is essential. Clean and scrub thoroughly.

I’ve always used normal low sheen paint in a decently ventilated bathroom, and see no reason to use “special” paint in a kitchen, particularly if you have a range hood or exhaust fan.

What you pay for when you buy Dulux is one of the most (if not THE most) washable paints in Australia. It should be fine in your bathroom or kitchen, bestest, cheers Mathy :)

Thankyou Mathy for your help on this one....

I dont have any mould...just some flaking of ceiling paint after 27 years of the builders original paint...Bergers

After what you have said I will just stick with what I am using in my renovation...Dulux...without paying the silly extra money for their 'special' paint for bathrooms

I am taking your advice as per what you mentioned about the kitchen preparation and use a 180grit pole sanding pad on the ceiling to smooth over the odd area of flaking paint in the bathrooms

Is that okay?

Thanks Mathy :-)

Paul

Hi Paul.

What you’re doing sounds excellent 👍 cheers M :)

Phew....I am glad and thankyou so much Mathy

(I wasnt kidding about the rubber shovel....seriously)

I am happy to learn though!

My Best as always

Paul

hi Mathy, good advice to Paul, you used to be able to buy a 20 ml bottle which contains mould inhibitor, not sure whether it's still available. Geoff.

Hi Geoff,

Yes you can still buy it. But as I said to Paul. The stuff is pretty toxic and should always be handled wearing appropriate PPE - which would be gloves and a mask.

If anyone wants mould inhibiting paint at a reasonable price and in whatever shine level you want, buy Taubmans - all of their indoor paint had mould inhibitor in it.

cheers M :)